San Jose, 10th May
...Who was I kidding, staying at a hostel for $28/night (for a private room) on my first night in Costa Rica? I don't think I got a wink of sleep, despite the mostly-sleepless 28-hour journey from Hong Kong to San Jose via Madrid. There was no hot shower, no air-conditioning, and very thin walls. I wasn't quite ready for the backpacker lifestyle just yet. At 6:30am I got up and booked myself a night into a hotel room right in the city center (Hotels.com points - so it was almost free, thanks to lots of duty travel during by BA years!)
I took an Uber for the 3-minute ride to the hotel.
And had coffee at the cafe in the National Theatre - hand-drop coffee of the beans of a choice from one of the seven provinces of Costa Rica.
And finally drinks and dinner with a friend in the nice neighborhood of Escalante.
Today I just needed to feel somewhat alive again, and by any means.
Baby steps to the backpacker life. Baby steps.
Bali Rica, Ojochal, 11th May onwards
Not many Workaway opportunities had availability during this low season and didn't require Spanish ability, but I was accepted by this place called Bali Rica on the Pacific coast in a tiny town called Ojochal. Mac and Sharon had designed and imported a Balinese house from Indonesia, and built 5 other houses on this piece of land - 4 for rental, 1 for themselves and 1 for staff/volunteers.
I've sort of developed a routine now, mostly as a result of natural forces: I wake up between 5-5:30, depending on which one of these two alarms goes off first: when the chickens decide that they've had enough in the coop and start clucking loudly, or the parrots have their daily morning screech-off to announce their arrival and/or talk about the previous night's thunderstorms they'd had to endure.
I go let the chickens out, come back and start the kettle before sweeping the floor of the open kitchen and the deck of the night's debris of dead insects, wings, leaves, and dust.
I make breakfast - tea, overnight oats with yogurt and mango that I've picked up from the road by the beach, and peanut butter on toast (toasted in the George Foreman). The wood-workshop next door would start their electric saws at 6. Sometimes earlier. I eat as hummingbirds and other kinds of birds buzz around my deck, surrounded by tropical greenery.
Everything is still damp because of the rain the night before, even my supposedly quick dry towel is still damp.
From about 8am, I start 'work' (my host hasn't quite formally discussed with me the terms and chores, but rattles off when she sees me out and about). So far I've been helping clean the various buildings (volunteer houses, the rental villa, the yoga pavilion), feeding the chickens and ducks, and keeping the dogs company during a thunderstorm. Not really much heavy lifting.
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| Oso, golden retriever, attention seeker, will chase anything you throw, always happy. |
As such, there's a good amount of spare time around here. I've been picking spinach from the garden to sauté for lunch, waiting out the rain and chatting to the other work-exchanger Mr. F, reading and bird watching (spotted my first wild Tucan! And parrots, hummingbirds, wood rails, birds of prey and all sorts of others I can't name), going to the supermarket, picking up mangos from the neighbour's driveway, listening to my Spanish audiobook, talking to the groundsman Mr. M in an awkward mix of English/Spanish/'sign' language and awkwardly pretending to understand each other.
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| The resident Tucan I saw from my deck! |
The grounds here are stunningly lush, diverse, full of wildlife. The veggies and fruit from the grounds are available for my picking - I've only had spinach and bananas but there's supposedly loads more that I've yet to make use of - ginger, pineapple, papaya, coconut, some sort of mandarin...it goes without saying that everything is organic.
Day off - surfing!
Yesterday I had the day off and so I took the bus (after waiting for almost an hour and a half and unsuccessful attempts at hitchhiking) to Uvita which was 20 mins away for a surfing lesson. Attempting to learn how to surf in the weak-yet-unpredictable waves at the beaches outside of Tokyo with a friend had made me think that surfing was highly difficult and dangerous, especially after I ended up with 3 stitches on my left leg. But with a dedicated instructor, very frequent and consistently easy waves, and a beginner board, I was riding the waves after a couple attempts. The hard part was dragging the board and myself back out every time! Now I just need to find a beach nearby with nice easy waves and a shop to rent a board for practice...
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| Bananas from the garden, conveniently hung at my height by Mainor the gardener |
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| Playa Tortuga, the nearest beach from the property. Free mangos. |