Sunday, 26 May 2013

Rant: Water it, or leave it

"If you think the grass is greener on the other side, maybe it's time to water the grass you're standing on." - Anon.

...and to that I add, you can also leave it.

I am growing increasingly impatient of people who wouldn't stop harking on about how much they hate Hong Kong [or wherever they're living at this current moment], constantly complaining about how this sucks or how that doesn't work properly or how something is insufficient or how something else pisses them off...and yet they still live here. 

We live in the 21st century now, where mobility (especially at our age and stage in life) is virtually unlimited, the choice of places to go is abounding and opportunities can be found (to a certain extent) everywhere. So why choose to be bitter and stay in a place where you hate with such passion?

The worst is when they try to impose their views on others, and they pick out all the undesirable aspects of the city, compare them to other cities/countries that have gone through a completely different history or has vastly different cultural heritage or geographical features, and then whine about how HK sucks because some aspects just can't compare.

 "I have no choice" is not a legitimate excuse. If you have the ability to be waffling on about it over brunch or over a $40 coffee or over a dinner table at a restaurant that's not a cha-chan-teng or if you are reading this, then you definitely have a choice.

So to them I say, either get out of my country, or zip it and embrace it and start doing something about it.

Peace.

"This sucks...I'm just gonna close my eyes and pretend I'm somewhere else"

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Statistics

I thought these "blog readership statistics" are just me clicking on my own blog once in a while..but I got 10 views yesterday. I wonder who these people are. But no one leaves comments. I WANT TO KNOW WHAT'S IN YOUR HEAD TOO!









And yes. Lebanon posts are still on the way...slowly but surely.

Wednesday, 8 May 2013

Ladies of Leisure in Lebanon

Monday 8 Apr 13

Ruins, mosque, church, construction = essence of Beirut
After a leisurely morning at home cooking and eating (leftover) breakfast, Jen (who arrived late last night and found me in my PJs dozing off with a book on my face), J, bebe E (100 days today!) and I decided to take the stroller and take a stroll across central Beirut. Roads and pavements in Beirut are not exactly stroller friendly, however. So mama J carried the baby in front of her the whole time, while Jen took the stroller, and I took pictures.

We started our journey along Hamra Street (of Hamra area, which I was told was the 'Muslim' district), got fruit juice on the way, and trotted towards the city centre. All along the way, my mind was constantly being fascinated by and frantically taking in the surrounding environment - the colourful graffiti in english and arabic, run-down buildings with exotic architecture, construction sites everywhere, houses decorated with bullet holes and some just tired from time and from war...not to mention the sounds - rusty engines, constant honking of cars, excited children on a school playground, and the unexpected "welcome!" and "hello!" and "picture picture!" where some people have gestured at my pro-looking (i.e. chunky) camera, asking me to take pictures of them. Still baffles me to this day why they did that.

RM Private Museum
At one point we very randomly chanced across a luxurious and wonderfully preserved building & huge garden - we poked our nose in and walked through the gates into the garden, where there was a decent collection of statues and columns and other relics from around the Byzantine period (that's like 1700 years ago). We later found out that it was the Robert Mouawad Private Museum that was in the guidebooks, but at the time we were too chicken to go inside the building.

We finally reached the city centre, the Place de l'Étoile, and sat down at Al Balad for lunch, followed by a very leisurely afternoon cuppa at a non-smoking cigar lounge in Le Grey Hotel - living the Lebanese 'tai tai' life in Beirut.

After tea, Jen and I, not being able to take any more of bebe E's cuteness, abandoned the mother and child (who was joined by their father, don't worry), dropped by the beautiful and magnificent (but not old) Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and continued East to the (supposedly) 'Christian' district of Achrafieh in East (side of) Beirut. We took more photos of crumbling buildings, was WELCOME-ed by the Le Chef boss, chatted up some uncles sitting by a construction site, exchanged phone numbers with a cutie from a vintage light repair shop, stared at cats staring at birds, took photos of a random group of finely-suited (mafia-looking!?) uncles, all the while sticking out like a sore-thumb (and screaming tourist!) with our fair skin and big cameras.

How can one not love this face!?

Leisure-ing in Le Grey

Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque

Creativity 


Dinner was simple but delightful, at a newly opened little restaurant around the corner from home. We tucked into an array of home-style dishes, no clue as to what they were called...but it was nothing short of pure joy.



*disclaimer - don't take my word as any factual reference. Do your own research. Ha.

Sunday, 28 April 2013

Hello, Beirut!

Even for a (fairly) seasoned traveller like myself, there would always be a small hint of awkwardness-bordering-uncertainty-bordering-anxiety when going through immigration going into a country. I was definitely leaning towards the "anxiety" end of that scale, as the expression-less head-scarf-clad immigration officer lady took her time going through my passport. She would glance up to look at me, then look back down, and proceed to ask me where I had come from / where I was going / what I was here for...until finally BAM, the chop went down on an empty corner of my scruffy British passport, and I was through - setting foot, for the first time ever, in Beirut, Lebanon, the Middle East.


It (sort of) all started from an email from J, a university friend from Sweden who currently lives in Beirut (and has been for the last 2 years), telling me that her and her husband K will be moving out of Beirut by the end of summer, to pursue a masters degree in either Europe or the US. And so suddenly there was an urgency to visit her in Lebanon. And suddenly the idea of Lebanon became exciting. And how un-disappointed I was.

Saturday:
I landed at night, and K kindly picked me up from the airport in a little rattly turquoise car (humourously nicknamed "Speedy"), and we sped down the highways and tunnels zipping through taxis and other weekend drivers, who regarded lines on the roads as guidelines rather than rules. Not dissimilar to driving in mainland China, but perhaps with one less hazard that are the Chinese cyclists.

They lived in a walkup, on the top floor, so K had to carry my massive suitcase full of winter+summer clothes+London souvenirs up 5 floors to their cosy 2-bedroom-plus-balcony flat. I met their 3 month old darling daughter E for the first time. J+K briefed me on the logistics of life here - don't throw toilet paper in the loo, where the switch for the water pressure pump was, the scheduled 3-hour power cuts, the taxidermist landlord...And this is the best part of travelling and staying at friends' homes - not merely visiting a country as an outsider, but being able to "do life", getting involved and actually experiencing living (at least for a short time) in this country.

Sunday:
For breakfast, K and I ran down the street to a "snack shop" (Snack Faysal) to pick up some local lebanese pastries - cheese and zaatar manouche, some triangular pastry things (google tells me fatayer), and some other small round meat-pie things (no luck googling that). The neighbourhood is near the AUB (American University of Beirut) and some international schools, so teens/young people with American accents were dropping by to get their morning post-soccer-game snacks and hangover cures. (Respectively, of course).

After breakfast, we took Speedy and drove (and sometimes inched along with the traffic) (with the baby!) around town a bit, taking a rest stop at a lovely little Dar Bistro and Books for a strawberry and banana smoothie, before dropping by to visit the volunteers at the Migrant Workers Task Force who hold English classes for foreign immigrant workers - J's usual Sunday activity before she had baby E.

After a brief chat and show and tell of E to the students and volunteers, we drove down to Raouche, saw the "Pigeon rocks", took the standard tourist pictures, and had a stroll on the Corniche. J also braved "social taboo" and breastfed baby E in public on a bench on the Corniche, and very proud of it! Nothing says counter-cultural (or Swedish) more than openly unbuttoning your shirt and bra to quench your baby's thirst in a pre-dominantly Muslim country (even though the Lebanese government wouldn't make that claim, at least not according to their only census conducted in 1932 where Christians were a slight majority, but then that's another story). J never ceases to amaze ;)

With the sun beating down and the baby getting impatient, we decided to retreat indoors for some solutions to our own hunger issues. We hit Cafe Hamra for some standard local food (hummus, pitta, tabouleh, batata kil bizkara, cheese sticks things etc). E has been attracting a lot of attention throughout the day, her adorably chubby cheeks drawing people on the Corniche and in the restaurant to her. Just wait til she's older...


They then dropped me off near the AUB, where I joined the Walk Beirut tour, a 4 hour walking tour through the heart of the city, uncovering the layers of history and cultural depth in painstaking (but glorious) detail. I say 4 hours, but I was so powered up by the fascinating stories and details that there was no room for fatigue.


I managed to find my way home without much hassle, and we ordered in (from a shop where they had a delivery man who had a BAD KNEE so K ended up having to run down 5 floors to pick up our food).

So. Just another day in Beirut!





Tuesday, 23 April 2013

How the Hezbollah disrupted my Monday

Most people don't start a blog post about their trip with the last day of their trip. But I will. Because I'm not most people.

On the last day of my trip, I got up at 7.45am Lebanon time to pack and have breakfast. K drove me to the airport, taking turquoise little Speedy one last time. By this time I had already been in Lebanon a week, and now used to the unruliness of Lebanese driving, and no longer clutching onto the edge of my seat.

I was going to have two hours to transit in Dubai..should be enough, right? I thought. I got to check in, I was told there's a DELAY by approximately one hour. Uh oh. But surely they'll try to catch up with flying time right? Pray.

I went through immigration, free wifi ran out, so tried to email and Facebook my supervisor using an airport complimentary stand-up pc, telling him about the possible further half day delay of my return. I had already extended my leave by two days so that I could stay the weekend and make my trip 4 days longer. Oops.

But the delay ended up being two hours. No chance of catching the flight to HKG anymore. Shit.

As I boarded the flight, I overheard the flight attendant telling an abnormally patient biz-class passenger that the delay is due to the war in Syria, resulting in planes having to reroute so as to not fly over Syrian air space, and causing delays in and out of airports in the surrounding area. Middle East conflict just got REAL.

I got to Dubai at the same time as my home-bound was taking off. Messaged my colleague Alex and he emails DXB airport CX staff. Perks of working in an airline..! Immigration into Dubai took centuries. It's hot, and in an air-conditioned terminal in the middle of a desert, my anxiety and annoyance quickly turned into sweat blotches on my back. Is my sublo* travels luck running out?! It has been a pretty smooth year so far. I don't usually believe in "luck". Or signs. But you do wonder.

Finally got through immigration, grabbed my luggage, and because I didn't know better, left the postmodern state-of-the-art sci-fi-looking Terminal Three (the Emirates terminal), embraced a mild 33'C, and then got blasted with air-con again on a free shuttle bus that took me to Terminal 1 (the crappy terminal). After maneuvering around T1 for a bit and talking to a few uniform-clad people who didn't know how to deal with me, the info desk lady finally calls CX airport office for me. They were nice enough (well they were warned by Alex) and invited me into their office so that I could rebook myself onto the next flight, and leave my suitcase while I go get a bite and a bit of reading material (Cosmopolitan DUBAI edition - finally, a girly magazine withOUT 50pages graphically describing some whiny annoying couple's kin
ky sex experience).

5 hours later, I nervously wait for the check-in desk to close, anxiously wait to be given my boarding pass, politely cut the immigration queue (with the help of CX airport staff), breathlessly power walk to the gate, and patiently wait as the flight is DELAYED again. By an hour. Not too bad. I was finally going home, half a day later than I was supposed to, but at least on premium economy!

And that was the end of my (first) Middle Eastern adventures.



* Sublo - subject to loading / standby flights / FREAKIN CHEAP (but risky) STAFF TICKETS

Tuesday, 26 March 2013

SARS, 10 years on

I was about to take my HKCEE exams - the most important exams until that point of my life. It was that horrible period between spring and summer, wet, humid, stuffy, choking in a prickly face mask that does absolutely nothing to prevent contagious diseases. I took it off, most of the time, much to the annoyance of my teachers. That was all I cared about. But taking a look back now, 10 years later, I realise how much I had underestimated just how serious it actually was.
Margaret Chan says the mode and speed of the deadly spread of Sars 10 years ago did catch us out, but we should remember it today for how the world rose to the challenge to contain it

Ten years ago, on March 12, I sent an urgent e-mail to the World Health Organisation. I was in charge of Hong Kong's Department of Health at that time. We were screening more than 50 hospital staff for symptoms in a mysterious outbreak of flu-like illness. I was alarmed for two reasons. First, these were health care workers, the lifeblood of health systems everywhere, and some were extremely ill with pneumonia. Second, the cause could not be identified. The mysterious nature of the outbreak bothered me deeply, as I believed that Hong Kong's laboratories and scientists were among the best in the world. That view was subsequently confirmed internationally as events unfolded in what became a nightmare experience for me, Hong Kong, and the world.
That same day, the WHO used the internet to alert the world to Hong Kong's outbreak and a similar outbreak at a hospital in Hanoi, where 25 staff were acutely ill with pneumonia or severe respiratory illness, and five were in critical condition. Media coverage of the WHO alert was intense, and that set the alarm bells ringing in hospitals the world over. Vigilance - and anxiety - were high.
More bad news came the following day, when authorities in Singapore reported atypical pneumonia in three young women who had recently returned from a stay in Hong Kong.
By March 15, it was clear that the first new disease of the 21st century was spreading explosively along the routes of international air travel. At 2am, the head of the WHO outbreak alert and response team received an urgent call from Singapore. A doctor who had treated the first cases there was attending a medical conference in New York. He, too, had fallen ill with similar symptoms and was flying home. WHO traced the airline and flight details. At a stopover in Frankfurt, the doctor and his two travelling companions were identified and immediately placed under medical care. They would become Germany's first cases. On the same day, Canada reported its first cases of atypical pneumonia.
The WHO issued a stronger alert. It named the new diseases after its symptoms: severe acute respiratory syndrome. The WHO defined characteristic symptoms and asked all travellers to be alert to what it called "a worldwide health threat".
As details about the earliest cases began to emerge, Hong Kong was again in the spotlight. All of the earliest outbreaks, outside mainland China, could be linked to a single location: the ninth floor of Hong Kong's Metropole Hotel. They could further be linked to a single event: a one night's stay, on February 21, by a physician who had treated pneumonia patients at a hospital in Guangzhou. He was admitted to hospital the following day and died soon after. In a classic piece of detective work, Hong Kong's Department of Health epidemiologists linked that brief stay to 13 infections that seeded the outbreaks in Hanoi, Singapore, Toronto and Hong Kong, starting chains of transmission that would eventually affect thousands.
In the four months following the March alerts, Sars closed schools, businesses and some borders. Air travel to Hong Kong and other severely affected areas seemed to halt overnight. Tourism dried up. Consumers stayed at home. Economic losses mounted into the millions and millions of dollars. By the time the outbreak was declared over, on July 5, nearly 8,500 people had been infected and nearly 800 had died.
Those four months were heartbreakingly hard. But they were also a time of triumph. Rarely has the world shown such solidarity. Scientists from multiple countries put aside their academic rivalries and collaborated around the clock sharing all they knew, all their special tricks of the trade. Hong Kong scientists were instrumental in identifying the causative agent - an entirely new coronavirus - and devising the first diagnostic tests. Top scientific journals set aside their rules about content access and expedited publication dates to ensure that new knowledge about the disease was immediately available to all. Clinicians spent long hours in teleconferences, sharing knowledge about symptoms and treatments, trying to unravel the mysteries of the new disease.
I remember Hong Kong's empty streets and the masked faces of the few who ventured out. I remember the funerals of health care staff who died following their dedicated care of patients. But I also remember the clean-up campaigns, the volunteer groups and the civic initiatives of support. I remember collaboration from all parts of society, like the police who contributed an electronic tool, developed to track criminals, that greatly facilitated the tracing of patients' contacts to find those with symptoms and give them care.
I remember the sudden explosion of cases in the Amoy Gardens housing estate in early April and how that event prompted an unprecedented isolation order to prevent further spread. I remember, too, the almost instant expert speculation from abroad that the explosion of cases at the housing estate was proof that the Sars virus was now airborne. I remember the emergency investigation, conducted by the Department of Health and eight other government agencies, that quickly proved that rumour false, calmed down the panic, and helped the people of Hong Kong cope. Though that event has been investigated by multiple other research groups, no one has ever challenged the conclusions reached by the Hong Kong teams.
Sars revolutionised our understanding of the power of real-time communications. During the outbreak, the WHO issued daily situation updates, keeping the public and the media fully informed, as knowledge about the disease and effective measures for control began to emerge.
One set of statistics defines this power well. The WHO alerts provided a clear line of demarcation between the earliest outbreaks, in China, Hong Kong, Hanoi, Singapore and Toronto, all of which were severe, and the 26 additional countries and territories where cases subsequently occurred. Areas with outbreaks before the alerts began on March 12 accounted for 98 per cent of the global total number of cases and 79 per cent of total deaths. The other 26 sites, characterised by high levels of vigilance and preparedness, were able to prevent further transmission or limit it to just a handful of cases.
Sars also shattered the notion that countries blessed with high standards of living and top medical care were somehow invincible to the threat from new diseases. Sars was largely a disease of wealthy urban centres. The virus spread fastest and most efficiently in well-equipped hospitals.
Sars taught the importance of meeting an emergency with whatever tools are at hand. Sars was a 21st-century disease in its mode and speed of spread. But it was eventually defeated using the 19th-century tools of case detection, contact tracing, isolation and infection control.
In the view of some, the humble thermometer was the weapon that broke the chains of transmission.
In the end, Sars was a story about human ingenuity and determination, about a world united by a shared threat, about how a lethal new virus could bring out the best in human nature.
Dr Margaret Chan is director-general of the World Health Organisation

Sunday, 30 December 2012

Let's get this out of the way and never mention these two words ever again...

The words "illegal structures" - so overused, so trivial, so who-the-fudge-gives-a-rats-arse, so sick of them. Almost as sick of them as I am of Maroon 5 and Rihanna and that Korean rapper.

There seems to be some kind of obsession with illegal additions to housing structures recently.

This fixation with illegal structures started during the chief executive "election", when it was discovered that the man who was supposedly the next CE was housing a huge luxurious illegal basement in his huge luxurious house. Yes, his "lavish underground wine palace" (terms lavish/palace/wine are all relative when talking about any of those in HK) even made it to the Telegraph dot co dot uk news, despite 1. there really wasn't a real election, 2. he's not the first or the only one with such structures, and 3. I really can't care less.  The local media did go mental, and hired cranes so that they can get their cannon-like cameras over Tang's high walls and fire shots of shame and successfully shoot down his attempts of becoming the next chief.

And then it was also discovered that the newly elected chief CY Leung also has luxurious illegal structures in his luxurious homes. The media went even more berserk, and all they could talk about for literally, WEEKS, was how many extra illegal flower pots and store rooms he's got in his multiple homes and how many lies he's told and how we should be caring. Tough luck. Still not interested.

Then there's the issue of highlighting the insane number of village houses in "rural" Hong Kong (well, relatively rural) that have had illegal structures added onto them by their sly and greedy owners. It is also revealed that there's a government department, with a director, 40 staff and an annual budget of HK$36 million to "tackle the illegal works". Now THAT I DO care - that's MY hard-earned taxed money, and it's going to be used to remove extra shelving on rural houses rather than adding extra beds to hospitals or helping the old/frail/disabled/poor?